AH SURE AZURE

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  • Every twentyfour hours 14

    Every twentyfour hours 14

    Tuesday morning and I get ready to go for 6am.  I opened one side of the gates. At this the attendant came out and said he would do the gates.

    -‘can I see your payment receipt?’

    ‘ why would you want that?  and was as uncooperative as possible.

    ‘You have paid only until midnight.’

    ‘ I paid for one night and stayed for one night’

    He walked away and opened the other gate.

    Thankully that was the end of it. Whoever thought of charging from midnight to midnight was a complete genius. Turns out it was a greedy woman.

    There is a road called the SS16 running the length of the east coast, parallel with the Autostrada. Incidentally, there is also a train which is frequent and stops all the way down the coast. A great option to see Italy. Remember it is a narrow country and Rome is not far away on the other side, over the Appenines.

    I opted for the SS16 hoping to see some scenery along the way and of course avoid the massive trucks. I was rewarded with a picturesque drive alongside the sea with fields of sunflowers or borders of cornflowers on the other side.

    I chose a campsite called Camping Fano and made for it. When I was within 2 minutes of the front gates, I came across an accident so I had to pass by. The traffic got blocked up for about an hour then I drove back to the campsite. I had rung earlier and had got a good response so although I passed other campsites and was tempted to book in along the way, I stuck with my original plan.

    My hunch proved correct. This is a huge campsite, very popular with Italians who come here for the weekend and also for their entire summer holidays. I was met by David who walked around with me so I could choose the site I liked best. The train rushes past here and is incredibly loud so I opted for a site in the middle of a lot of caravans, a bit further from the train, but a stones throw from the sea. I wondered how my caravan would fit in but nothing was too much trouble. The motor mover was called for and David personally put in position.

    Fifteen minutes later, I was called over for coffee with Lily across the way. David stayed for the coffee and I was made feel like one of the family. We got over my lousy Italian and the warmth coming from Lily was enough to break any language barriers.

    I am about three meters from the beach and the first thing I did after basically setting up the caravan was to go for a swim. How gloriously luxurious to float around on the salty water after all the travelling.  I was so happy to have found a heavenly place with such welcoming people.

    This a busy bustling site has built in quiet times from 1 to 2.30 every day.- (Orario de Silenzio) The 25 metre swimming pool has full time lifeguard and the shop is well stocked with everything from huge lumps of Parmigiano and Prosciutto to fresh bread and bottles of water, so that there is hardly any need to leave the campsite during your holiday.

    Entertainment is staged at the bar every night although it is all in Italian. I was introduced to everyone who had any English. They described me as bravissima for the ‘sola’ drive I had done.

    I think I will stay here for a few days.

  • Every twentyfour hours 15

    Every twentyfour hours 15

     

    I started the day by visiting the market at Senigallia, down the coast from Fano. I was little prepared for the stunning elegance of the old town. Wide bridges take you across the river, then though arches into the smaller streets. Columns line the quays where the main part of the market took place – clothes, shoes, jewellery etc.

    Further down the quays, the fruit and vegetable market was located in the old Agora or market, a semi circle of stone buildings facing in on the central area of the outdoor market place, dating from Roman times. It had been renovated and preserved with great precision and attention to detail. So while I came to Senigallia for the market, I was bowled over by the architecture and the Old town.

    Later in the day, I drove inland to Urbino. This is a must see city if you are on Italy’s east coast. I drove through Fano, then along the old Via Flaminia towards Rome. Roman History was one of my favourite subjects in school and it thrilled me to follow the ancient road towards Roma. Perfectly level of course, built as only the Romans knew how. We in Ireland never had the benefit of Roman roads like the rest of Europe as they clearly did not think it was worth their while invading as they did in England.

    A word about Fano – a significant old Roman town where you will see the most imposing walls and fortresses topped with intricate stonework and images of emperors.  Again not to be missed.IMG_5830

    When I reached  Urbino, I went straight to the Palazzo Ducale built to the order of Frederico Montefeltro, in the fifteenth century, a ruler, warrior, patron of architecture and art, from the fifteenth century , in other words, a Renaissance man. He ensured that Urbino became a major court and important centre of political and cultural matters. Concerned for his subjects, he ruled fairly. He commissioned Luciano Laurano to build the Palace, in accordance with the latest theories of building and architecture. The result is a beautifully proportioned but enormous palace, with room after massive room and vaulted ceilings topped by the Eagle, the crest of the Montofeltros. The Palace today houses the National Gallery of the Marche area and contains many works by Piero di Francesco, Paulo Ucello and the famous La Muta by Raphael.

    One of the more stunning of the paintings to me,  is the Madonna of Senigallia, yes the place I mentioned as having the market earlier in this blog. I seldom take photos of paintings but I was so taken by the colours and the expressions on the faces – seeming in awe yet very concerned – a sense of foreboding as to what is to come, that I broke my usual rule.IMG_5838

    One of the rooms or studios is walled in the most wonderful cabinetry. The designs make optical illusions so that musical instruments seem to protrude from the walls.

    At the risk of sounding hopelessly romantic, I will share with you a moment that was utterly Italian. As I walked down from the Palace towards where my car was parked, I stopped on one set of battlements that overlook the road that winds around the base of the Palace. I was looking at the surrounding hills with their Cypress trees and sloping fields when a row of motor cyclists came into view, lazily making their way around the bends. I noticed one of them was wearing full leathers and I wondered why he was the only one dressed like that. Then one of other riders looked up at me, beeped the horn and waved. I returned the wave and that was it. But it had a touch of magic to it, a kind of Italian style and spontaneity on a beautiful sunny afternoon when it was truly good to be alive.

  • Every twentyfour hours 16

    Every twentyfour hours 16

    Arrival at the Metropolitan City of Bari

    Over the four nights at Camping le Fano, I got to know many people and was made to feel completely at home. So I was emotional about moving on and facing the next part of my journey. At the same time, I was anxious to get going.

    I was waved off by everyone who helped move the caravan out of the space and on to the car, as well as Lily, Francesca, Luka and many neighbours.IMG_5905

    I skulked along the SS16 for about 30km. Then I realised the road surfaces were really bad. I decided to brave the Autostrada. This was the best decision as it was Sunday, there were no trucks on the road. I came across them parked up in the Servicios. The road sought was magnificent, with Oleanders in white, red and pink ling the road and the sea on the left for much of it. Every now and then, a hilltop town would appear ahead, off the autostrada. I decided to complete the journey to Bari, stopping in servicio about five times. It was easy driving and I was glad to be getting close to my destination. When I saw the first signs for Bari I was excited.

    I missed the 7pm boat to Corfu so decided to overnight at the port.

    The closest campsites to Bari were all well out of town, at least 50km. I did not have the energy to face a further journey, so when the port guards said I could stay in the car park, that is what I did. It was far from ideal. Where I was, the embarkation for Albania and Croatia was located. There were many families, mostly in cars, waiting to board. All around the edges of the vast carpark were fast food stalls and the atmosphere was transient as if no one really cared about the place. Children ran around the caravan.  I ate what I had in the fridge and cleaned out the rest as I had no connection to keep it cool and settled in for the night.

    I heard the commotion of the cars boarding and looked out occasionally to see what was happening. I woke the next morning to the sound of seagulls squawking and cackling as they advanced across the carpark, gradually consuming what the humans had left over the night before..

    When they moved on, the pigeons moved in and liked to land on top of the cararvan.  When it came to eight am, I walked down to the port guards and asked them about getting to town and what time the booking office opened. They told me the tickets for Corfu were available three km in the other direction. Now the night before, the Guarda di Finanza had told me Corfu boarded three km in this direction. They advised there was a free bus in an hour. I said I had a car hitched to the caravan. They said to take it off and drive to get the ticket.

    I parked in town and found wifi as I no longer have a phone package and am completely reliant on free wifi. I made contact with my friend Barbara who is cycling in Puglia with her husband and we discussed how to meet up. We looked at the trains and then I made the decision to jump in the car and drive one hour down the coast to Ostuni. I would take a chance on leaving the cararvan in the carpark.  But first I had to find the car. One of the features of Old Bari is the maze like streets, paved with stone or cobbles designed to keep the inhabitants cool and to confuse invaders. I was walking around the outside of the old walls then decided to attempt to retrace my steps. Not so easy when your brain goes to mush in the heat like mine does. I went into the middle of the streets again , then asked a waiter  where the porto was. Another man got involved who had some German, but this did not get me any further. I could see the waiter was trying to grasp the problem, so I  told him I could not find my car. He led me down a few streets, and we came out exactly where I had parked. I thanked him and he handed me over to a carabinieri who handed me over to a carabinieri who could speak English. He cut short a telephone conversation to talk to me, and I assured him I was okay and that I had found my car. They could not have been more helpful.

    I took the sea road, following the sea around and eventually switching to the auto strada. It was a straightforward drive, the landscape changing from fields separated by groves of olives, oleander and cypress to field upon field of olive trees in rows, growing out of red earth. Stone walls divided the fields. Large swathes of vineyard with huge bunches of grapes appeared as a change from the olive trees.

    I reached Ostina and with a bit of difficulty, found the hotel where my friends were staying. Barbara and I had a swim, then we joined Pat for coffee and cake – Torto. They had flown in to Bari and there picked up rental bikes. They then cycled from Alberbello along the coast with all their gear in saddlebags on the bikes. While I was there a massive storm erupted which put their plans back. We got a huge fright from the noise of the thunder and the lightning was in vivid forks in the valley in front of us. I stayed a few hours then felt I should go back and rescue the caravan. I left them so they could take a train to Gallipoli , an Italian ton further south.

    When I got back to Bari,I was met by a guard who told me the police were about to remove the caravan and charge me €500 to retrieve it. He had asked them to give me one more hour. I immediately hitched it up and moved it down to where you actually get tickets. It was as if they were making it deliberately difficult. I eventually was allowed park the caravan near where the cars were embarking for that days trip and I went in and bought the ticket. I asked the woman selling the tickets if she knew of any campsites nearby. Then I got a very valuable piece of information for anyone travelling from Bari. There is a city centre carpark with electricity connection called Pinguino. When I eventually found it, I was organised and welcomed again. Taxi laid on so I need not take the car into the city.

    Next morning, I was taken by motorscooter to have my phone set up with a package. Then a hair appointment was organised with one of the guys wives. They are coming out to Corfu in August and we planned to meet up. It was a great way to put down the day as the boat was not until 7pm.