AH SURE AZURE

Category: Travel

  • Every twenty four hours 17

    Every twenty four hours 17

    My last day in Italy was spent looking for a phone package, unsuccessfully as I could not unlock my Irish phone and having my hair done. I was taken in hand by the friendly managers of the Pinguino parking. At 4pm I made the 1km journey down to the ferry.

    Welcome to chaos. Every guard there waved me on, until I was in the queue for embarkation, without having checked in. this is the thing about travelling alone. You have to leave the car where it is – tucked in under a stationery artic. The last guy who directed me in there did not realise I had not yet checked in. so I came back with my papers and got told off for being where I was. Not to worry, I reversed out when told to and we inched our way down the crowded quay. Stationery artics lined both sides of the quay. Into this, drove fully loaded Blue Dragons, – this is what we called double decker car transporters as children- and artics. They passed through the most unlikely spaces, not without lots of fist shaking and yelling. At one stage I saw a guard reading his phone while two massive trucks passed each other with inches to spare. I actually took confidence from this because I realised he knew this would all sort itself out. We inched onwards and I was eventually waved in while one truck was told to hold back and another revved its engines behind me. The passport men were completely relaxed and cheerful and only laughed when I confided in them that I was about to have a heart attack.

    I thought I was home and dry at this point. Big mistake. I tried to board the first ferry in front of me as there were two with ramps open. I was told no – go down the quay and take a right. I thought that was come sort of a joke as there was only the end of the quay in front of me with a sheer drop into the water beyond that. Eventually I followed a campervan who was clearly having the same thought processes as me. In a blind act of faith, like finding platform 93/4 in Harry Potter, we made for the end of the pier. There it was – a blue sign saying turn right, we followed this along to where the Ventouris ferry for Corfu and Greece was loading.

    The whole place was full of bustle and excitement. Azure sea tempting us across to Greece with promise of things to come. Foot passengers laden with children and suitcases walked up the ramp alongside the cars and trucks boarding. Then impossible as it looked, a Blue Dragon started reversing on to the ferry.

    The main man from Vantouris, the ferry company, dressed in white shirt, sporting the right level of protruding stomach for his age and status, and holding a walkie talkie was the man with the power. He directed some cars to board, others to back back back and if they did not understand, he just leaned in and took the wheel. The guy was hands on.

    I and several  campervans were put to one side. I only understood later that we had to go on last as the ferry was going on to Greece mainland after dropping us. So 7 pm, our departure time came and went. Eventually , I got the call up. I then realised that horror of horrors, I was being told to reverse in. just then, my ticket was checked and they noticed my car had not been included in the price. I was now the only vehicle not boarded and soon some flunky from the office drove up in a citroen and came to a halt right in front of me. Sunglasses were pushed up on his forehead as he gave me a look and he spoke on the phone. All I could think was- a good result here is that I reverse up the ramp. Its like waiting to know how you will be executed. Lucky me, they decided I could pay the balance in the Bursar’s office on board. So that left me to lock right and left – – a guard came up and said – look at him when he directs you,.’ I thought I should look where I was  going but I abandoned that and just moved the wheel whichever way I was told. In fact I was gone well beyond caring. I had confidence too that they knew what they were doing so I did not get anymore stressed than I already was.

    It was great to get on the boat. The bursar was chain smoking in his little office and told me he could only accept cash. Luckily I had the extra €50 on me and he remarked what a beautiful name I had.

    Now I never heard that one before so I assumed he was just out of practice. As I left, I forgot to take my passport so I was called back. They assured me it would have been safe there with them, what with such a lovely name etc.

    All I was worried about was that I had enough for a beer so I could celebrate my trip to date and my successful boarding to my final destination.

    I found a comfortable part of the seats in the bar where I could sleep and I installed myself. I went on deck to see the views of Bari behind us. How glorious to be leaving Bari and crossing the Adriatic Sea with warm breezes blowing, blue sea and the prospect of a beer ahead of me.

    Sleeping has not been a problem for me on this trip. I have surprised myself over and over by dropping off to the sound of ship’s engines, youngsters having the crack and television playing. I hope I did not snore too loud as I really had a deep sleep. No blankets or pillows, just my bag for a pillow. Actually way nicer than being entombed in a cabin. I got up at 1.15 am and walked out on deck for a while. Need I describe the scene ? -balmy breezes, stars overhead. There was a man asleep on deck on a double airbed with his two dogs asleep there with him. There were also tents pitched on deck. I went back to my seat and fell back to sleep.

    Next morning, the approach to Corfu was majestic and dignified. The scenery would not allow it to be otherwise. The old fortress of Corfu town loomed in to sight as the mountains paved our way on our right hand side. Disembarking was pure joy into the sunny Greek morning.

  • Every twentyfour hours 14

    Every twentyfour hours 14

    Tuesday morning and I get ready to go for 6am.  I opened one side of the gates. At this the attendant came out and said he would do the gates.

    -‘can I see your payment receipt?’

    ‘ why would you want that?  and was as uncooperative as possible.

    ‘You have paid only until midnight.’

    ‘ I paid for one night and stayed for one night’

    He walked away and opened the other gate.

    Thankully that was the end of it. Whoever thought of charging from midnight to midnight was a complete genius. Turns out it was a greedy woman.

    There is a road called the SS16 running the length of the east coast, parallel with the Autostrada. Incidentally, there is also a train which is frequent and stops all the way down the coast. A great option to see Italy. Remember it is a narrow country and Rome is not far away on the other side, over the Appenines.

    I opted for the SS16 hoping to see some scenery along the way and of course avoid the massive trucks. I was rewarded with a picturesque drive alongside the sea with fields of sunflowers or borders of cornflowers on the other side.

    I chose a campsite called Camping Fano and made for it. When I was within 2 minutes of the front gates, I came across an accident so I had to pass by. The traffic got blocked up for about an hour then I drove back to the campsite. I had rung earlier and had got a good response so although I passed other campsites and was tempted to book in along the way, I stuck with my original plan.

    My hunch proved correct. This is a huge campsite, very popular with Italians who come here for the weekend and also for their entire summer holidays. I was met by David who walked around with me so I could choose the site I liked best. The train rushes past here and is incredibly loud so I opted for a site in the middle of a lot of caravans, a bit further from the train, but a stones throw from the sea. I wondered how my caravan would fit in but nothing was too much trouble. The motor mover was called for and David personally put in position.

    Fifteen minutes later, I was called over for coffee with Lily across the way. David stayed for the coffee and I was made feel like one of the family. We got over my lousy Italian and the warmth coming from Lily was enough to break any language barriers.

    I am about three meters from the beach and the first thing I did after basically setting up the caravan was to go for a swim. How gloriously luxurious to float around on the salty water after all the travelling.  I was so happy to have found a heavenly place with such welcoming people.

    This a busy bustling site has built in quiet times from 1 to 2.30 every day.- (Orario de Silenzio) The 25 metre swimming pool has full time lifeguard and the shop is well stocked with everything from huge lumps of Parmigiano and Prosciutto to fresh bread and bottles of water, so that there is hardly any need to leave the campsite during your holiday.

    Entertainment is staged at the bar every night although it is all in Italian. I was introduced to everyone who had any English. They described me as bravissima for the ‘sola’ drive I had done.

    I think I will stay here for a few days.

  • Every twentyfour hours 15

    Every twentyfour hours 15

     

    I started the day by visiting the market at Senigallia, down the coast from Fano. I was little prepared for the stunning elegance of the old town. Wide bridges take you across the river, then though arches into the smaller streets. Columns line the quays where the main part of the market took place – clothes, shoes, jewellery etc.

    Further down the quays, the fruit and vegetable market was located in the old Agora or market, a semi circle of stone buildings facing in on the central area of the outdoor market place, dating from Roman times. It had been renovated and preserved with great precision and attention to detail. So while I came to Senigallia for the market, I was bowled over by the architecture and the Old town.

    Later in the day, I drove inland to Urbino. This is a must see city if you are on Italy’s east coast. I drove through Fano, then along the old Via Flaminia towards Rome. Roman History was one of my favourite subjects in school and it thrilled me to follow the ancient road towards Roma. Perfectly level of course, built as only the Romans knew how. We in Ireland never had the benefit of Roman roads like the rest of Europe as they clearly did not think it was worth their while invading as they did in England.

    A word about Fano – a significant old Roman town where you will see the most imposing walls and fortresses topped with intricate stonework and images of emperors.  Again not to be missed.IMG_5830

    When I reached  Urbino, I went straight to the Palazzo Ducale built to the order of Frederico Montefeltro, in the fifteenth century, a ruler, warrior, patron of architecture and art, from the fifteenth century , in other words, a Renaissance man. He ensured that Urbino became a major court and important centre of political and cultural matters. Concerned for his subjects, he ruled fairly. He commissioned Luciano Laurano to build the Palace, in accordance with the latest theories of building and architecture. The result is a beautifully proportioned but enormous palace, with room after massive room and vaulted ceilings topped by the Eagle, the crest of the Montofeltros. The Palace today houses the National Gallery of the Marche area and contains many works by Piero di Francesco, Paulo Ucello and the famous La Muta by Raphael.

    One of the more stunning of the paintings to me,  is the Madonna of Senigallia, yes the place I mentioned as having the market earlier in this blog. I seldom take photos of paintings but I was so taken by the colours and the expressions on the faces – seeming in awe yet very concerned – a sense of foreboding as to what is to come, that I broke my usual rule.IMG_5838

    One of the rooms or studios is walled in the most wonderful cabinetry. The designs make optical illusions so that musical instruments seem to protrude from the walls.

    At the risk of sounding hopelessly romantic, I will share with you a moment that was utterly Italian. As I walked down from the Palace towards where my car was parked, I stopped on one set of battlements that overlook the road that winds around the base of the Palace. I was looking at the surrounding hills with their Cypress trees and sloping fields when a row of motor cyclists came into view, lazily making their way around the bends. I noticed one of them was wearing full leathers and I wondered why he was the only one dressed like that. Then one of other riders looked up at me, beeped the horn and waved. I returned the wave and that was it. But it had a touch of magic to it, a kind of Italian style and spontaneity on a beautiful sunny afternoon when it was truly good to be alive.